It’s hard to believe that it’s almost been 7 years since I got on a plane headed for Lisbon, to give myself a taste of a life that had always called out to me, tickling my curiosity and inviting me softly into a new chapter of life. I had no idea just how much my life would change and all the experiences I’d be opened up to, with this rare gift of a fresh start in a new land. And how much Lisbon would begin to sink into my soul, and infuse it with its unique energy. My relationship to so many things has changed since then, including my relationship to my work, and my relationship to color. But that’s for another novel, and another day!
When I first came to Lisbon, I felt like it wrapped me in a big warm hug. I love that it’s a city unafraid of colour, with infinite shades of peach, pink and yellow. And it’s also a city that celebrates pattern, which is something that feels so welcoming to me, as a pattern designer. There is pattern everywhere. I have fallen in love with the more popular, iconic designs but savour the magical moments when I spot a tile design that is new to me.
It’s also just a really easygoing, safe, walkable, warm, sunny, coastal city with the most magical light and great food. It’s pretty easy to fall in love with this place. The city has changed sooo much since I moved here, largely because word has gotten out about what a great place it is to live. Since the pandemic it’s become increasingly more “international” (aka: bougie) which brings some complexity. For the Portuguese, it’s created major issues around housing, and the rising cost of living. On the upside, the city has become much more modern and a little easier to live. Sometimes living in Lisbon feels like going back in time, but I’ve come to really truly appreciate that about it (once the North American efficiency-obsession melted away). I’m just as in love as ever, so I wanted to share some of what makes it feel special to me. Here are some recommendations for people who are visiting Lisbon for the first time.
Distinctly Portuguese or Lisbon things
• The tiles (azulejos)! They’re just incredible.
• The hills. Be prepared! It's called the City of Seven Hills because it is indeed a hilly place, but it results in so many beautiful and interesting views of the city.
• The light — it’s called the city of light for a reason. It glows! The houses are such warm colours, peach pinks yellows, so when the sun reflects off of them, it results in this incredible glowing warmth. It's magical and one of the things I love most.
• Quiosques. The kiosks around the city are plentiful, and are so charming!
• Miraduoros (viewpoints) provide you with the best views of the city. Usually there are cafes or patios to grab drinks and watch the sun go down. A Lisbon must! My personal favourite is the Miradoura do Graça — you can sit down, have a drink and enjoy the views.
• Bordalo de Pinheiro, a famous ceramicist. You will see his stuff (or copies of) all over the place. Vhils is an urban artist that has found fame worldwide. Bordalo II makes 3D murals around Lisbon — look out for them around the city.
Don’t leave Lisbon without…
• Having gelato at Nannarella.
• Eating a pastel de nata at Manteigaria (there are multiple locations) or Fabrica da Nata (also many locations). Both have a touch of extra salt in their pastry which takes it to the next level :)
• Having some Vino Verde. A green, sometimes slightly bubbly, light wine that's perfect for summer. Or anytime, really.
• Taking a good long wander, or many wanders, through the little streets and neighbourhoods. To me, it's not a city where I feel you must check all the museums — it's more of a place where you should just set out, and see where you end up. It's the perfect city for wandering and you can never predict what you'll see along the way. Pick a destination and slowly weave your way towards it. If you wanted a great starting point though, one of my favourite neighbourhoods for a wander is Mouraria (the Moorish quarter).
• Watching a sunset (ideally at a Miraduoro, or at a rooftop bar, like Park bar — it's a busy spot but the drinks are great and the view is amazing — I think it's worth it during sunset or in the afternoon for a rooftop cocktail. It's in a parking garage (hence the name) — take the elevator up to the top, and when it lets you out, keep walking up to the top and you'll find it). But there are tons of rooftop bars if you do a quick google.
• Going to Cascais (and seeing the ocean while you're out that way!). It’s a cute city about a half hour outside of Lisbon and easy to take the train to. Get off a few stops early at São João do Estoril and walk along the ocean all the way to Cascais — it's gorgeous, and soothing, and nice to see a different side of life outside of the city. If it's a decent day for it, you can chill out and watch the surfers or take a dip in the ocean. Also, considering having lunch at one of the little beachside restaurants along the boulevard (I really like Bolina, near Estoril — a humble little oceanside spot — my favourite is the Dourada ao Bulhao Pato, aka: seabream with clams). Once you get to Cascais, make sure you take a good wander through the cute streets. And if you're hungry, there’s a cute, friendly vegan spot with rooftop patio called House of Wonders. You can walk, rent a bike or take an uber a little further along to Guincho beach (check out Boca da Inferno along the way). It's breathtaking, and there is a cute spot (Bar do Guincho) to have some Camarao à Guilho (shrimp with garlic) and a glass of Vino Verde and watch the waves.
• Going to Sintra. It's a full-day thing but if you can swing it, it’s a pretty magical place. Go see Pena Palace or my fave, Quinta da Regaleira. It's like a fairytale. You can catch the one-hour train from Lisbon. If you go, go to Quiejadas da Sapa, and get a quiejada (a little tart) or my favourite, a travesseiro (a puff pastry). There is a cute salon / tea room at the back (and a washroom!).
• Going to the tile museum (and have lunch at their beautiful café).
• Taking a tuk-tuk ride — honestly, they’re just fun. And they’ll take you to see a bunch of different miraduoro’s all at once so it's a very good use of time if yours is limited!
• If you eat meat, try a bifana (pork) or prego (beef) — these sandwiches are super simple, really humble fare but very tasty. Must be eaten with an imperial (little beer)!
Shops worth checking out
• A Vida Portuguesa (I specifically recommend the one in Intendente — Largo do Intendente Pina Manique 23 —it’s the best)
• Depozito — another great shop for Portuguese Design!
• Cortiço & Netos, a shop for discontinued tiles! Go if you love groovy old tiles as much as I do.
• Kintu Studio — an inspiring shop with amazing design by modern Portugal-based makers
• Cerâmicas na Linha is a shop that sells beautiful ceramics by the pound.
• Fabrica Features is a cute design-y shop and they usually have small art shows on that are worth seeing.
• Embaixada — I mainly like this for the interior of the building, the frescos are so impressive.
• Companhia Portugueza do Chá — a historical must-visit shop with delicious tea!
Where to eat
Lisbon is quickly becoming a culinary destination with more and more restaurants popping up! I’ll include a few of my faves here but you can check out my more comprehensive Lisbon for Visitors Google Maps list. Note that a lot of restaurants require reservations but many save spots for walk-ins.
• Casa dos Passarinhos — a typical Portuguese ‘tasca’ with great grilled fish and other Portuguese specialties. Walk-ins welcome.
• Estrela da Bica — modern Portuguese food and great ambience! This is usually where I take guests :) Reservation online is easy!
• Magnolia — a super cute bistro and wine bar at one of the most charming squares in Lisbon. Walk-ins welcome here.
• Tasca Baldracca — this places is soooo delicious! Modern Portuguese with a twist, next level — one of my favourite meals in a while! Reservations highly recommended.
• Atira-te ao Rio — I highly recommend doing this. It’s across the river, so you have to take the 15-minute ferry from Cais do Sodre to Cacilhas but it’s easy and so fun to get another perspective on Lisbon from the other side of the river. I recommend going for dinner, and watching the sunset — it can’t be beat. There is also another restaurant called Ponto Final in the same location, but Atire-te takes online reservations (so much easier when you’re traveling).
• Honest Greens — this is one of my faves for easy, quick and casual dining. It’s the kinda spot where you order at the counter and they bring to your table so it’s not as involved as a sit-down-and-be-served spot. There are a bunch of locations, the food is healthy with well-sources ingredients, and it’s great for solo dining. The one in Principe Real also has an amazing terrace with views of the city.
Where to Stay
I live here so I don’t have much first-hand experience — however, I do have some insights on which neighbourhoods to stay in. Tourism is one of Portugal’s main sources of income, so over the last few years the city has had an exploded with Airbnbs, so there are tons of options if you want to go that route. I would recommend staying centrally, so that you can walk everywhere (it’s a VERY walkable city just be prepared for the hills). I have included a map below that shows you the area I would stay within. Personally, I would stay in Principe Real, Sao Bento, Santos or Estrela (the pockets I’m most connected to) but there are many great areas — I would just avoid Bairro Alto. Go check it out in the day because it’s cute, but at night it becomes a total university-style party zone! Fun to walk through, but not great if you want to sleep. If you have a little extra cash and want to splash out on a boutique hotel, the Jo&So website has great options.
Beach life
If you can swing a car rental, there are a ton of beaches you can get to from Lisbon. I personally would recommend going to the Sesimbra area / the Arrabida Coastline. My favourite beach there would be Praia do Creiro, it’s soooo beautiful. Or Ribeira do Cavalo is also incredible (but a bit hidden, so google some tips on getting there). If you want to get to a beach but don’t want to rent a car, there are other options. You could go to a closer beach — I recommend Fonte da Telha which is about a 30-minute Uber from Lisbon (usually about 25€), or you can take the bus — I do that all the time, but it’s a bit of a mission if you have limited time. Alternately, you can go to one of the trainline beaches on your way to Cascais (Estoril would be my top pick).
Outside of Lisbon
If you have the time, I would highly recommend getting outside of Lisbon and seeing more of this amazing country! As a Canadian who comes from a land far AND wide, this country amazes me for its variation in such a small space. You can travel 30 minutes out of Lisbon and feel like you’re in another place entirely. If you have a week in Portugal, I’d suggest 3 days in Lisbon — and then go either North, or South, for a few days too. If you go North, you’ll get to Porto (another amazing city) but just beyond that is the Douro Wine region which is absolutely spectacular!!! I mean, WOW. And if you go south, I would recommend driving along the Costa Vicentina, and stopping off at Porto Covo, a charming blue-red-and-white village. You could stay a bit further down and experience the wildness of the west coast, somewhere like Aljezur. Or head further south and stay on the south coast, somewhere like Lagos, which is a great home base. Down there you will find amazing (and much calmer) beaches, turquoise waters and warmly-hued cliffs. Portugal is seriously amazing though, so this is just a starting point. Driving in Portugal is actually really easygoing so if you enjoy driving, renting a car is the best way to see this beautiful place.
Hope these make your trip just a little bit more magical — enjoy!
Some views of Lisbon… colourful and as obsessed with pattern as I am.
Some views of areas in and around Cascais, and the last one is Pena Palace. Every time I've been to Sintra the weather has been different, and Sintra is like a chameleon - the experience can be totally different on foggy vs. clear day - but believe me, both are awesome and it's kinda fun to see what you're gonna get.
